Painting Tank Tools
by John Robinson
I know that painting vehicle tools is probably not at the top of your list of things to think about when finishing your model. But sometimes it's the details that count, and the tools should be in harmony with the rest of the models weathering and finish. I like creating a realistic, “in the field” look, which forced me to think about how the tools should look. Fortunately there are many pictures available in print and on the Internet, and it doesn't really matter that much whether it's 1940's vintage vehicles or an M1 Abrams in Iraq.
What I found is that tools are (obviously) made of metal and wood, and are painted along with the tank itself. So they're nice and pretty out of the paint shop, but once they are used, the paint starts to wear off from handling or being in contact with the ground or other mechanical surfaces. It's this appearance I'm after when I use this technique.
Materials:
- Graphite pencil (4b is softer than the standard 2b and works slightly better).
- Tape (regular Scotch is fine)
- ScotchBrite pad or small wire bristle brush
- Toothpick
The method is very flexible and other than the 4b pencil the other materials can be swapped with whatever you find that does the effect you want. Although I usually paint my models with the tools installed, a base layer of paint is not required for this technique. Do whatever you are comfortable with.
Start by using the pencil to “color” the steel areas of the tools. Rub it in thoroughly, and it benefits from subtle polishing afterwards with a Q-tip or towel. This is creating a “slick” surface that will be taken advantage of next.
Next, airbrush whatever body color the model requires over the graphite areas. I always use acrylic paints, mostly Tamiya and Vallejo. I cannot comment on other brands or types. I speculate that they all would work, but experiment first and let me know if you find out differently.
Put the airbrush away (and clean it!), then get out the rest of the materials in the list above. Use them to scratch the metal areas until the paint comes off, which should be fairly easy. Even a fingernail (preferably your own) will work if you are so inclined. I personally like the look that ScotchBrite pads leave. The tape is great because it leaves random splotches better than doing it by hand. If you go too far, just airbrush the body color again and repeat the steps. The scratching should probably be done soon after painting, as paint cures over time and it may become too difficult to remove.
The wood parts are done somewhat the reverse of the metal areas. The wood ares should be the model's base color already, if not, make it so. Tear off a small piece of sponge and grab it with tweezers. Wet the sponge with the paint to be used for wood areas--it's your choice. Just keep in mind that most tools are made from very hard wood from trees like Ash and tend to have a greyish-tan color, not red or yellow like pine. I'm sure there are exceptions, but this is a good rule of thumb. Take the wet sponge and dab it on a towel to remove most of the paint, like preparing to dry brush. Use the sponge to streak or stipple the paint on the wood areas.
You'll want to seal the metal areas with clear cote to keep from scratching it inadvertently during handling. A bonus technique is to apply pigments to simulate dried dirt.